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Add External Hard Disk Drive to Xbox

Posted on January 19th, 2010 | by admin

02 Xbox 360 Console - All Sides

Xbox 360 Mod/Hack Rating:

Difficulty Level:         2 out of 5

Skill Level Needed:   2 out of 5

Personal Risk:            2 out of 5

Equipment Risk:         2 out of 5

Duration:                     1.5 out of 5

Cost:                            1.5 out of 5

Satisfaction:                3 out of 5

Bottom Line:        2.5 out of 5

Expensive Memories

Data storage in video game consoles have always been a premium commodity since game data saving became possible.  But this was only understandable and acceptable during the early days of disc-based consoles.  Now, advances in the mass storage industry made economies of scale possible on a priced resource in computing – storage capacity.  A closer look will show that video game console are now riding the hardware and software advancement of personal computers.  In fact, the latest generation of Xbox and other consoles are more of a Personal Computer than a Video Game Console!

There’s a PC in your Xbox 360!

If you try opening any of the three 7th Generation video game console, like the Xbox (warranty voided!), distinct PC-like components may be found: CPU, GPU, RAM, HDD, Audio Chip, MoBo & Chipsets, Optical Disc Drive, Network Adapter, USB Ports, Video Ports and more.  This means that with the right motivation, equipment, materials and skills, you can safely extend and expand the functionality and performance of the gaming platform.

Do-it-Yourself Xbox 360 External Hard Drive

Instead of buying a $149.99 120GB Xbox 360 Hard Drive from Microsoft, you could safely and easily add one on your own externally.  You could revive that old 80/120/160/200GB ATA/IDE Hard Drive that’s collecting dust in your drawer.  Imagine viewing your precious media files through your shiny Xbox 360.  Cool huh?  Yeah!

 03 - USB 2.0 External 2.5 in. HDD Enclosure Kit

Hardware Needed:

   Xbox 360 System (Power Adapter, Video Cables, Controllers, Video Display & Games)

   3.5” ATA(IDE) Hard Disk Drive (preferably 60+GB Storage Capacity)

   3.5” ATA(IDE) Hard Disk Drive USB 2.0 External Enclosure Unit (w/ Fan):  $10-$30

   USB 2.0 Data Cable – Standard A/B Plug (usually included with the External Enclosure Unit)

   5V/12V AC/DC Power Adapter (usually included with the External Enclosure Unit)

Software Needed:

   Microsoft Windows XP or later Operating System

   FAT32 Formatting Software (Paragon Partition Manager, Partition Magic, Win98 FDisk/Format)

Tools Needed:

   Philips-Type Precision Screw Driver Set

   Mini Screw Driver or Small Tweezer (for changing Hard Drive Jumper Pins)

   Dry Cleaning Cloth or Dry Tissue Paper (for dust cleaning)

04 - USB 2.0 External 2.5 in. HDD Enclosure Parts

Skills Needed:

   Basic Hardware Assembly Skills

   Basic Electronics Skills

   Basic PC & Windows Operating Skills

Alternative Hard Disk Drive & External Enclosures:

   3.5” SATA Hard Disk Drive w/ corresponding HDD USB 2.0 External Enclosure Unit (w/ Fan)

   2.5” ATA(IDE) Hard Disk Drive w/ corresponding HDD USB 2.0 External Enclosure Unit

   2.5” SATA Hard Disk Drive w/ corresponding HDD USB 2.0 External Enclosure Unit

The Main Phases & Individual Steps:

  1. Avoid transferring static electricity to any electronic devices.
    1. Attach a grounding cable to your wrist whose other end is connected to a grounded metal or outlet.
    2. Or firmly hold a grounded metal surface to dissipate any static electricity in your body.
  2. Install the Hard Disk Drive in a compatible USB 2.0 External Enclosure Unit.
    1. Back-up important files from the old hard drive that you wish to use.
    2. Use a dry cleaning cloth or dry tissue to remove any dust or debris from the old hard drive (be careful not to break or scratch any component).
    3. Refer to the user’s manual in the External Enclosure Kit that you will use for more detailed instructions on how to install your HDD in it.
    4. The HDD must be set as “Master,” if not, configure it to “Master” by moving the jumper pins with a pair of tweezers.  Refer to the instructions on the drive’s label,  manual or website.
    5. Firmly attach the HDD to the connector(s) of the External Enclosure Circuit.
    6. Enclose the HDD and the Circuit with the External Enclosure.
    7. Firmly place the screws to secure the new External USB Hard Drive.

06 - USB 2.0 External 2.5 in. HDD Enclosure Case

  1. Connecting the External USB Hard Drive to your Windows PC.
    1. Connect the Power Cable to the Power Adapter.
    2. Connect the Power Adapter to the new External USB Hard Drive.
    3. Connect the B-plug of the USB 2.0 Data Cable to the External USB Hard Drive.
    4. Connect the A-plug of the USB 2.0 Data Cable to the USB Slot of the PC.
    5. Plug the Power Cable of the External USB Hard Drive to an AC Power outlet of the RIGHT Voltage.
    6. Switch-on the External USB Hard Drive.  The HDD inside should start to spin-up.
    7. Let Windows detect the new hardware and wait for ready to use indication.
  2. Format the External HDD Unit (HDD capacity is less than 32GB)
    1. If HDD capacity is less than 32GB, open windows explorer.
    2. Right-click the drive and click format to run formatting tool of Windows.
    3. Choose FAT32 as File System, enter Label or Volume Name and leave other settings to default.
    4. Click start to format the drive.
    5. Wait for the format process to finish.
  3. Format the External HDD Unit (HDD capacity is more than 32GB – Windows XP does not natively support partitioning and formatting FAT32 volumes larger than 32GB, a special Application will be needed)
    1. Run the Partitioning & Formatting Software to setup.
    2. Select the Physical HDD.
    3. Run command to Delete/Remove all partitions in the External USB Hard Drive.
    4. Run command to Create a new partition in the External USB Hard Drive.
    5. Run command to Format the new partition in the External USB Hard Drive using the FAT32 Files System.
    6. Add Label or Volume Name for the partition/drive.
    7. Run command to execute/commit the actions to the External USB Hard Drive.
    8. Wait for the partition/format process to finish.
  4. Transfer your media files in the new volume in the External USB Hard Drive.
    1. Open the new volume in My Computer/Windows Explorer.
    2. Transfer you media files and organize them as desired.
    3. Wait for the transfer process to completely finish.
  5. Safely Removing the External USB Hard Drive from the Windows PC.
    1. Close any open Explorer window relating to the External USB Hard Drive.
    2. Click the “Safely Remove Hardware” icon in the System Tray Notification Area.
    3. Click to Select “Safely Remove Hardware”.
    4. Wait for the “You can now Safely Remove the Hardware” notification.
    5. Disconnect the A-plug of the USB 2.0 Data Cable from the USB Slot of the PC.
    6. Turn-off the External USB Hard Drive.  The HDD inside should start to spin-down.
    7. Un-plug the Power Cable of the External USB Hard Drive from the AC Power outlet.
  6. Connecting to a Xbox 360 and viewing your files.
    1. Bring the External USB Hard Drive (along with the Data Cable & Power Adapter) near the Xbox 360 console.
    2. Connect the A-plug of the USB 2.0 Data Cable to the USB Slot of the Xbox 360.
    3. Plug the Power Cable of the External USB Hard Drive to an AC Power outlet of the RIGHT Voltage.
    4. Switch-on the External USB Hard Drive.  The HDD inside should start to spin-up.
    5. Let Xbox 360 detect the new hardware and wait for ready to use indication.
    6. Run Media Center, Choose Portable Device to open the USB Storage File Browser.
    7. View your media files.
  7. Safely Removing the External USB Hard Drive from the Xbox 360.
    1. Close any open File Browser relating to the External USB Hard Drive.
    2. Click the “Safely Remove Hardware” icon.
    3. Click to Select “Safely Remove Hardware”.
    4. Wait for the “You can now Safely Remove the Hardware” notification.
    5. Disconnect the A-plug of the USB 2.0 Data Cable from the USB Slot of the Xbox 360.
    6. Turn-off the External USB Hard Drive.  The HDD inside should start to spin-down.
    7. Un-plug the Power Cable of the External USB Hard Drive from the AC Power outlet.

08 - Xbox360 Console & USB 2.0 External 2.5 in. HDD Enclosure

Benefits:

   Save from $110 to $140

   Make use of your old/idle Hard Drive

   View your Media Files from Xbox 360

   Have a High-Capacity Portable External USB Hard Drive

   Have a High-Capacity Portable Back-up USB Hard Drive

   Have a High-Capacity Media File Storage for your Xbox 360

   Have a “Staging Area” for other more complicated & more exciting mods/hacks

   Personal Satisfaction & Bragging Rights (Yeah!)

P.S.: A Little more about the Xbox.

Xbox 360 was made available on November 2005 in the USA, Mexico and Canada.  It was released in Europe and Japan in December 2005, other countries followed in the following year.  The console was completely sold out  upon release in all regions except Japan.  With only a year in the market, Xbox 360 was launched in at least 36 countries, the highest first year distribution for a video game console.  As of January 2010, over 39 million Xbox 360 units have been sold.

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Tags: Case, CPU, games, mod, Ram, Xbox, Xbox 360, Xbox 360 External Hard Drive, Xbox 360 Hacks, Xbox 360 Mods

Computer Dictionary

Posted on January 6th, 2010 | by admin

Welcome to the Fury-Tech’s dictionary of computer related terms and definitions. Find a term in the Table of Contents to view a specific definition, or scroll down to view the entire list of terms.

Table of Contents

  1. AGP Aperture Size
  2. Active Cooling
  3. Auto Detect DIMM/PCI CLk
  4. Bank Interleave
  5. BIOS (Binary Input/Output System)
  6. Burst Mode
  7. Bus
  8. CAS (Column Access Strobe)
  9. CAS Latency
  10. CMOS (Complementary Metal-Oxide Semiconductor)
  11. DOS Flat Mode
  12. DRAM Command Rate
  13. DRAM Queue Depth
  14. FSB (Front Side Bus)
  15. Heatsink
  16. Jumper
  17. Lapping
  18. Molex connector
  19. Multiplier
  20. Passive Cooling
  21. Peltier
  22. RAS (Row Access Strobe)
  23. Spread Spectrum
  24. Stepping
  25. Thermal Compound
  26. Tcac (Column Access Time)
  27. Tras (Active to Precharge)
  28. Trcd (Active to CMD)
  29. Trp (Precharge to Active)
  30. Voltage

AGP Aperture Size:

^

The AGP Aperture Size is the amount of system ram to be shared with the AGP interface. Setting this value too high can steal too much system memory from applications, which can easily offset the benefit of more video RAM. The default setting of 64MB is usually fine, although you can experiment with higher and lower values yourself.

Active Cooling:

^

Active cooling refers to the use of an active system such as a fan, heatsink/fan combo or watercooling to cool computer components. (See also passive cooling).

Auto Detect DIMM/PCI CLk:

^

This is another method that can be used to reduce EMI (Electromagnetic Interference). When enabled, it will automatically turn off the clock cycles on unpopulated AGP, PCI or SDRAM slots. Clock cycles on populated slots will also be turned off when not in use if this option is enabled. Since there is no performance hit associated with this option, you can usually leave it on.

Bank Interleave:

^

Bank interleave allows consecutive data requests to RAM, cycling through each bank of memory. This can give a good performance boost with large RAM modules, since each bank of the module can be accessed consecutively. DRAM chips of 64Mbit or higher have 4 separate internal banks which can be active at the same time. You can set bank interleave to Disable, 2-bank or 4-bank. It is generally recommended that you use the highest setting (4-bank) whenever possible. Bank interleave doesn’t usually affect stability as long as the RAM module can support it.

BIOS (Binary Input/Output System):

^

The BIOS is software built-in to the motherboard. It is responsible for detecting and starting up basic device services in a computer at boot time. The BIOS can also contain a number of user-configurable settings, allowing you to control such things as RAM timings, CPU multiplier, AGP settings, and much more. If you plan on overclocking your computer, you will most likely spend a lot of time changing settings around in your BIOS.

Burst Mode:

^

This is a generic term, meaning that data is sent faster than normal across a communication line. Burst mode is implemented in many ways across the system bus, PCI bus, and caching methods for the IDE bus.

Bus:

^

When referring to personal computers, a bus is a collection of wires which are used to transfer data inside a computer system. A bus is made up of two separate buses: the data bus and the address bus. The data bus is used to transfer data from one device to another, and the address bus contains information about where that data should go.

CAS (Column Access Strobe):

^

A signal which tells the DRAM to accept an address as the column address. Used in conjunction with Row Access Strobe (see RAS) to select a bit of DRAM.

CAS Latency:

^

CAS latency refers to the ratio between column access time (see Tcac) and clock cycle time. Since column access time refers to the period after the CPU requests a column, to when the data is moved to the output line, a lower CAS latency means less clock cycles to move the data to the output line. It is usually recommended you use the lowest CAS latency which your RAM and motherboard can run stable with.

CMOS (Complementary Metal-Oxide Semiconductor):

^

The CMOS is a small amount of battery powered memory attached to your motherboard which allows your computer to store things like date and time, so they are not reset every time you turn your computer off. BIOS settings are also stored in the CMOS, and if there is ever a time when your BIOS modifications prevent your computer from booting up, there is usually a clear-CMOS jumper (see jumper) on your motherboard, which will clear the CMOS memory when removed for ~5 seconds.

DOS Flat Mode:

^

This setting enables DOS mode memory addressing. Windows already uses this method so only enable it if you are using an application that needs it. All memory will be seen as real, instead of as a segment and offset; this can result in better stability where it is needed.

DRAM Command Rate:

^

DRAM command rate specifies the time to wait after a chip select before activate and read can be started. It is usually recommended you use the lowest command rate that your RAM and motherboard can run stable with. However, at higher frequencies it may be necessary to increase the command rate latency.

DRAM Queue Depth:

^

DRAM queue depth specifies how deep row refresh requests can be queued. By queueing these requests, they can be issued in burst mode (see burst mode). This way multiple rows can be refreshed consecutively. It is usually recommended you use the highest queue depth which your RAM and motherboard can run stable with.

FSB (Front Side Bus):

^

Also known as the system bus, and sometimes the memory bus, the front side bus is the primary connection between the CPU and system memory. Other devices in the computer also derive their speeds from the FSB, such as the AGP bus and PCI bus. The AGP and PCI bus generally run at a slower speed than the FSB, and use a divider (see divider) to obtain the correct speed. The CPU also derives its clock speed from the FSB by applying a multiplier (see multiplier). Changing the frequency of the FSB can give you huge overclocks, but since so many components in your computer obtain their speeds from the FSB, it can cause a lot of stress on other components. It’s always best to take it one step at a time, so if you are overclocking your FSB then start in small increments. For example, if you normally run at 133MHz FSB, try 134 then test it, 135 then test, 136 then test, and so on.

Heatsink:

^

A heatsink is a block of metal that is used to help disperse heat from hot running components in your computer. The largest, and generally most important HS in your computer is the CPU heatsink. The CPU is the hottest running part of your computer, and it is important to help transfer heat away from the CPU as quickly as possible. You will also hear the term HSF, which is simply an acronym for HeatSink/Fan – usually referring to the combination of a heatsink and a cooling fan.

Jumper:

^

A jumper is basically a user controllable circuit. It generally consists of pins which are connected or disconnected using ’shunt’, a small plastic coated metal sheath. When closed (shunt is on), the circuit allows electricity to flow through. Jumpers are used for a number of things, and if you look closely at your motherboard you will probably see a few yourself – basically they look like small black plastic rectangles stuck on to two pins. In some cases jumpers are used to change FSB and multiplier settings, or clear the CMOS, or more.

Lapping:

^

Lapping is the term used to describe the process of smoothing the contact area of a heatsink. Generally this is done by using progressively finer grains of sandpaper to get the smoothest possible surface. This reduces the amount of air in the contact area and increases heat transfer.

Molex connector:

^

Molex is actually an electronics manufacturer that created many different cable adapters. However, the one molex adapter commonly found in PCs is commonly referred to as just “the molex plug” or the “the molex connector”. So when it comes to PC hardware, a Molex connector is the most common power connector found in a case – a 4 pin power connector with yellow/red wires providing +12V and +5V respectively, and two black wires for grounding.

Multiplier:

^

A multiplier is used by the CPU to obtain its clock speed. Since the CPU uses the clock of the FSB, it needs to multiply that clock speed by a number to achieve higher clock speeds itself. The basic formula is FSB x Multi = Clock Speed. For example, a FSB running at 133MHz, coupled with a CPU using a 10.5 multiplier, will result in a CPU running at 1.4GHz (133 x 10.5 = 1,396.5MHz). As you can see, changing either of these variables will result in a higher clock speed, and these are the two major numbers you will be changing if you want to overclock.

Passive Cooling:

^

Passive cooling refers to the use of a non-mechanical cooling method, such as a heatsink with no fan. Passive refers to the inactive method of cooling, since the cooling method relies on natural heat dissapation through a heatsink. (See also active cooling).

Peltier:

^

A peltier, or thermoelectric module, is generally a small plate which is mounted between the CPU and HSF. When an electrical current is applied to the peltier, all of the heat in the module is forced to the top, making the bottom very cold. This can be a useful component in moving heat off the CPU. In general terms, a peltier is an array of semiconductor pellets which have been doped so that either negative or positive charge carrier carries most of the current.

RAS (Row Access Strobe):

^

A signal which tells the DRAM to accept an address as the row address. Used in conjunction with Column Access Strobe (see CAS) to select a bit of DRAM.

Spread Spectrum:

^

This setting should almost always be disabled. To be CE listed in acceptance with the European market, this setting is included to help reduce EMI (Electromagnetic Interference). It can reduce system performance, so unless you are experiencing serious difficulty with EMI leave this setting off.

Stepping:

^

Stepping refers to the version of a CPU. Like a software application, version numbers change when bugs are fixed, and updates are made. Unlike software, the stepping of a CPU uses a different format for versioning, usually a proprietary code developed by the manufacturer. Usually the most recent stepping of a processor is the most stable and overclockable, but this isn’t always the case. Steppings are helpful when purchasing a CPU you intend to overclock, since doing a little research on the good steppings can help you find the most overclockable chip.

Thermal Compound:

^

Thermal compound is generally a paste or silver based compound which is applied between a heatsink and the chip being cooled. Thermal compound is important in transferring heat off a chip. Normally the surfaces of the heatsink and chip are imperfect, meaning there are microscopic ridges and bumps on the surface; thermal compound helps to fill these trenches and increase heat transfer into the heatsink.

Tcac (Column Access Time):

^

Column access time is the time it takes for data to be moved to the ouput line after the CPU makes a column request on the CAS line.

Tras (Active to Precharge):

^

Tras specifies the amount of time required between an active command to a precharge command. Basically this means the number of cycles that must pass after a bank is opened to when it can be closed. It is usually recommended you use the lowest Tras which your RAM and motherboard can run stable with.

Trcd (Active to CMD):

^

Trcd, also known as Active to CMD or RAS-to-CAS, is the time we have to wait between a row access request and a column access request. It is usually recommended you use the lowest Trcd which your RAM and motherboard can run stable with.

Trp (Precharge to Active):

^

The amount of time from a bank precharge request to when it can be activated. It is usually recommended you use the lowest Trp which your RAM and motherboard can run stable with.

Voltage:

^

The rate at which energy is drawn from an electrical source. This is an important term to be familiar with when overclocking, since an overclocked device will usually require a higher voltage to remain stable. Generally speaking, as the frequency of a chip increases, it requires more voltage to bridge a gap in the unit. Since all silicon has impurities, there will always be gaps. At low clock speeds the current has a chance to go around the gap, but as the clock speed increases the chances of a current not making the jump in time, or at all, increase. Higher voltage will help to sustain a higher clock, but it also increases the heat emitted, and the potential to damage the chip.

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Tags: Case, CPU, mod, motherboard, Ram

Hackintosh: Mac OS X on a Gigabyte GA-EX38-DS4

Posted on June 19th, 2009 | by

Check it out! adamo talks about Mac OS X on his Gigabyte GA-EX38-DS4:

I’ve been using Mac OS X since version 10.0, but I’ve never been able to come up with the cash to lay down for a decent, powerful Mac. It’s always been old hand me downs, nothing more powerful than a G3. I’ve loved OS X since the first time played with it, but Macs are expensive, and hardware choices are limited. Some of their designs are cool, but none of them follow a standard form factor. You can’t just keep your case and drives and upgrade just your core components, like you can with a PC. You’ve got to buy a whole damn computer every time you want to upgrade. I love their operating system, but for the money Apple’s hardware just doesn’t do it for me. Naturally I was super psyched when Apple announced they would be switching over to Intel hardware. I knew the day would come when I would by running OS X on my own custom PC, and it did.

Read the Full Article: adamo – extreme nerd guru

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Tags: Case

Free Firefox Extension Checks Google Cache

Posted on October 24th, 2008 | by

Just checked out this free <a href="http://www.gadgetadvisor.com/computer-software/free-google-cache-checker-firefox-extension">Google cache checker</a> from <a href="http://www.gadgetadvisor.com/">Gadget Advisor</a>. This handy tool is a tiny <a href="https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/">Firefox extension</a> that tells you at a glance if a site is cached in Google. Seeing the cache status in Google for any Website you browse can be very useful for anyone promoting a Website online. Or for anyone maniacally obsessed with having every last bit of search engine data at their fingertips. Either way, a great little free extension for Firefox.

Many of you here are either involved with the marketing of a web site for another company or operate a web site or blog of your own. For either case, being able to immediately see if a page is cached by Google would be invaluable. That’s exactly what the Google Cache Checker extension for Firefox offers.

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Tags: Case

Thermaltake Soprano DX PC Case Review

Posted on March 19th, 2007 | by

Thermaltake has updated the original Soprano case with the new DX version of the case. This new version addresses some issues that users experienced with the hard drive mounting system and Thermaltake has also added a few new features and new style to the case. Is this going to be the new Thermaltake case everyone wants? We will just have to see. Read on for the review!

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nMedia Wireless RF Keyboard with Trackball Review

Posted on February 21st, 2007 | by

I just built a brand new HTPC last week. I am using the SilverStone LC14MC HTPC case. The case came with a wireless remote, but I still need to have a keyboard and mouse connected when I want to transfer files via USB, or just sit in my bed and surf the web. Now I really don’t want to shell out a lot of money for both a wireless keyboard and mouse especially since I’m not going to be using it either that much. When you go down to you local computer store the only wireless keyboards and mice are the high-end expensive one. Well nMedia has a great solution that solves the keyboard and mouse problem, their wireless RF keyboard with trackball!

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In Win F43 PC Case Review

Posted on February 19th, 2007 | by

When I hear F430 I instantly think of one of my favorite exotic cars, the Ferrari F430. So when In Win named a case the F430 you would assume it would take on some of the characteristics of the real F430 and it does. The In Win F430 has an amazing car-like paint job, Ferrari-like stylish features, and even something that makes you feel like you are inside of a real F430!

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